A Guide To Hermès Leathers and Skins
Known as the creator of the most exclusive handbags in the world, Hermés has an unrivalled and highly dedicated consumer willing to pay above the odds to own one of their...
Known as the creator of the most exclusive handbags in the world, Hermés has an unrivalled and highly dedicated consumer willing to pay above the odds to own one of their ultra-exclusive bags. Their most iconic style, the Birkin, is the most collectible and sought after bag in the world. Each bag is hand-made by an expert artisan, taking upwards of 18 hours per bag – a true masterpiece.
In 2008 Hermès retired their waitlist system and now allocates bags based on the discretion of their sales assistants. Build a good relationship with your Hermes SA and show loyalty to the brand and you might be lucky enough to be offered the Birkin or Kelly that you’ve added to your wishlist. Many clients wait years to be offered the exact bag that they asked for, one of many reasons why clients trust Tailored Styling to source their dream Birkin or Kelly quickly, in the exact specifications they desire.
When it comes to leathers and skins there are many to choose from, each with their pros and cons. Here’s our guide to the most requested Hermés leathers and exotic skins and how each of them differ.
TOGO
One of the most popular Hermés leathers, Togo is great for everyday use and can be restored well with a trip to the Hermes spa. It’s a naturally grained leather with very slightly raised cells, which catch the light. A durable calf leather, it’s practical for a bag that will be worn regularly.
EPSOM
Epsom leather is equally as popular and is particularly chic when crafted using the Sellier technique, creating a structured shape with a slightly laminated appearance. Epsom Sellier bags tend to give a more elevated look. Unlike other leathers, the grain is pressed into the leather making it tough and durable, less likely to show scratches and holds its shape very well. It’s also waterproof, making it a great option for someone who wants to use their bag everyday or for travel.
SWIFT
Formerly known as Gulliver and reintroduced in 2005 under the name Swift, this leather has a super fine grain making it smooth to the touch. Beautiful for brightly coloured bags, you will often see the Kelly Cut and Kelly Pochette crafted from swift. Given its smooth nature it can be a little more delicate, and susceptible to creasing and scratches if not handled carefully.
CLEMENCE
A beautiful, larger-grained leather, Clemence was introduced in the eighties. Generally heavier than other leathers, it works well for slouchier styles such as the Picotin, or for someone who prefers a slouchier look for their Birkin. This leather can be delicate and does not fare well in the rain.
BOX CALF
Frequently seen on vintage bags, the name Box originates from an English shoemaker from the 1890’s, Joseph Box. This leather is stiff and smooth with a very fine grain. It keeps its structure very well and has a beautiful shine. Although it can be quite susceptible to scratching, it can be restored easily by the Hermés Spa. Seen much less often in newer Hermés bags, Box leather is very popular with collectors. Box leather was used by Jean Paul Gaultier for the limited edition ‘So Black’ collection in 2011 which is now highly collectible.
CHÈVRE MYSORE
Made from goatskin, Chèvre leather is lightweight with a soft shine. Seen much less often than Togo or Epsom, Chèvre is very special and can command a slightly higher value on the resale market. It is a very popular choice for a mini Kelly.
CHÈVRE CHAMKILA
This is also a goatskin, easily differentiated from Mysore by the visible markings down the middle of the bag. This is the hides spine, a very unique aspect.
DOBLIS SUEDE
Hermès suede Doblis bags are extremely rare to find in brand new condition and oftentimes collectors may have to consider a vintage bag if they want to add one of these rare beauities to their collection. Delicate as all suede is, it’s important to keep Doblis bags out of the rain, not to handle with dirty or greasy fingers and to beware of scratching. The most current suede Hermes style is the highly collectible Grizzly Teddy, as seen in the wardrobe of Kylie Jenner.
OSTRICH 
One of the most durable of exotic skins, Ostrich is identifiable by it’s hair follicles which appear as dots in the leather. Beautiful in bright colours and unaffected by rain it makes a great choice for an exotic bag that’s both striking and wearable.
POROSUS CROCODILE
Considered the premium Hermès leather, Porosus Crocodile is more expensive than its counter part Niloticus. Farmed in Australia, it’s identifiable by its symmetrical scale pattern. Porosus crocodile bags come in a shiny or matte finish, the latter being more expensive due to their scarcity. Crocodile skin bags should always be kept out of the rain to avoid watermarks.
NILOTICUS CROCODILE 
The more affordable of the two crocodile leathers Hermès offers, Niloticus skins are sourced from Africa’s Nile river region. They have a larger scale pattern than Porosus but both skins will present noticeable small ‘pores’ on each scale. Niloticus also comes in shiny and matte finish, the shine is created by continuously buffing each scale.
ALLIGATOR
Alligator is also produced in both shiny and matte finishes and is farmed in Florida. Unlike Crocodile, the pattern of alligator scales is not uniform and has generally smaller scales. For this reason it’s often used on smaller bags, but can be used for Birkin and Kelly too.
LIZARD
Lizard has tiny scales with a beautiful shine and is made from the Monitor lizard of Africa. Used for bags of all sizes, lizard can be dyed in bright colours or crafted into the coveted Ombré pattern, which is considered the ‘Himalaya’ of the lizard family. Lizard bags are extremely rare.
Each leather has it's own qualities and what is right for you will depend on how you intend to use your Hermès bag, and whether you're building your collection or just starting out. Browse our selection of readily available bags here. To source a particular bag, please get in touch with us.